Sardegna 2003

Easter again, and time for the annual pilgrimage to Sardegna, what could be more diverse from last weekends final ski?. I had vowed to return after last years mini expedition to do the Selvaggio Blu. On that occasion I had done little climbing and seen only a small aspect of the island. This time along with the usual suspects was to be the Horn from England. He was interested in the kite surfing potential of the island, so parting on the overnight ferry from Genova to Porto Torres we arrived to be greeted by the rain.

The first problem was to hire a car, this is not all that simple in Porto Torres as most people arrive with a car. All the same we managed to find a local hire company for a reasonable rate. The freak shower passed and we headed directly to the Isola dei Gabbiani on the North East tip of the island. We arrived at mid day and sought out Claudia's tent who we guessed; being a kite-surfette would also be staying here. Not being able to remember her tent we made the logical assumption that being of German origin she would have a green Vaude, our assumption was to be proved justified and we found her little tent in superb isolation at the tip of the island. We didn't think she would mind some intelligent company so we placed our tent right next to hers, headed for the beach and waited for the wind.

I'm not a kite surfer so I can only comment from my first impressions, but it seems such a strange sport. So many seemingly opposing factors need to come together to get it to work. You need wind, but to much wind is just as bad as to little, its needs to come from the correct direction, you need space on the beach and in the water, and then there is all the equipment to layout and prepare: all those lines, pumping up the kites and then only to sit waiting without guarantee of any action. We waited... after all this was one place on the whole island where the perfect conditions were guaranteed. A day or two passed, and don't remember now and then finally wind. Kites appeared from nowhere, the Horn was on the water and I valiantly followed my duties as beach monkey.

Hopes of a successive day were dashed. One day of wind was all we were permitted, so enough being enough and with a whole island to explore we headed down the coast to Cala Gonone. We met here the Pash who were ecstatic at having just finished the Selvaggio Blu, a wild and committing path that traverses the Golfo di Orosei. Cala Gonone is a little sports climbing mecca and now despite the attractions of a perfect beach I just wanted to climb. We headed down to the nearest area; Cala Fuili for some easy routes. Its a fantastic little bay. At its head you find the easy climbs over looking a little beach with its roasting sun bathers, it then stretches back into a ravine with many other cliffs to discover. We stayed by the beach.

The following day we were more adventurous and headed inland to Surtana. Unfortunately I had misread the guide book and it was to late when I realised that in fact it said to avoid the crag in hot weather. Never mind, even if we didn't have a mad dog we would still at least get to the crag. Unfortunately another misinterpretation of the guide book was made and we arrived under an undeveloped wall. By the time we found the correct cliff, which by now was all to obvious and teaming with parties we had lost interest. So, instead we carried on walking to the neolithic village of Tiscali set in a huge cave on top of a mountain. The walk was nice, and we met many people on the way. It was hot, and with full climbing packs a little exhausting.

There is just so much to do in this area, two weeks is simply not enough. We spent also a pleasant evening climbing at La Poltrona 'the armchair' an amazing throne shaped slab just above Cala Gonone. But now it was time to move on, always south in search of new rock, new winds and new beaches. Within 3 hours we arrived at Villasimius. In high season a tourist hotspot, but now it was deserted. The Horn wasted no time in discovering a deserted beach perfect for kite surfing. For my part I was interested in the areas bouldering potential, which according to our guide was good in this area. I must admit I found it a little disappointing, the areas were well spaced out, with only one or two quality problems at each area. Not a place that would warrant a second visit.

An afternoon was spent pottering around the islands capital Cagliari and its fine beach. Without any encouragement from us time was ticking along, so it was again time to move, this time north west to Oristano. We found camping at S. Caterina a little further north; its huge beach was deserted, so strange, so surreal, where was everybody? It must be quite different to the summer, and it was already really hot.

The climbing areas here about proved elusive to find despite carefully following the guide book description. The first area we tried, 'Castello del Vento' we eventually found following a most improbable 'road' into the heart of the countryside. In fact it was only thanks to a local farmer recognising the skyline captured photographically in our guide book that we found it at all. Unfortunately when we reached it's foot we found it already occupied by a vast cloud of flies making it impossible to even reach the climbs. With no other option than to change area we headed for Monte Arci. Apparently the whole of this crag had been cleaned and prepared by one person. After deciphering the pretty deceptive guidebook map we found it and the routes proved to be technical, vertical and well protected, highly enjoyable, in fact it was just good to be really climbing again.

Now our time was really coming to an end, there was just time first for a brief visit to the roman ruins of Tharros, and then to the area of Osilo near Sassari before completing our circle at Porto Torres. La Muraglia is one of the finest crags in this area. Of the same origin as the fabled Isili the quality of rock superb, pocketed on steep walls. The view fantastic.

A bottle of wine and the magic elevator made the ferry journey back to Genova slightly less tedious. We took away many good reasons to return yet again.