Rockmasters

It was a perfect weekend in Arco for those of us who prefer to watch others climb instead of doing it ourselves with the Rockmaster 2002 competition. Set against the backdrop of the impressive vertical walls of Arco and a bluer than blue sky we were treated to a spectacle of climbing at the highest level.

Saturday I was diverted into climbing at Massone, but the real proceedings got underway on Sunday with the worked difficulty event for both men and women. The competitors had tried this route earlier in the week, and this was a second chance to gain extra metres. The competitors masked well the difficulty of their undertakings (8a for the women and 8b+ for the men) with an incredible display of strength and technique. Despite finding a cunning no hands rest under the roof Legrand failed to top out. This glory went to Ovtchinnikov, but Chabot took overall victory as his combined metres were greater. Sandrine Levet took victory in the womens event climbing in fine style just pipping the Belgian Muriel Sarkany. The young Slovenian climber Natalija Gross climbed elegantly and delicately to take 4th, just behind compatriot Martina Cufar.

The mens bouldering event took place shortly after. It was a KO competition over 4 problems. Things got a bit confused when all competitors failed the third problem, however some fast talking by the Italians solved the problem and the event moved onto the final problem with 3 competitors remaining. Malcom Smith was looking favourite until the final hold which he failed to maintain with both hands. The Italian Mauro Calibani on his last attempt finally won the event after failing low down on the two previous attempts. The format of this event (as for the womens the previous evening) proved to be fast paced and highly entertaining.

The final event of the day was the duel. Climbing on site (8a and 7c respectively) the top 4 placed men and women from the mornings spectacular climbed side by side on identical routes, the victor being either the first to the top, or the highest placed. In the first semi Levet took victory against Gross and Sarkany beat Cufar in the second, both climbers falling near the top. The final was a closer affair, Levet this time topping out to take victory. In the mens Alexandre Chabot pipped Petit in the first semi, whilst in the second a careless slip by Mrazek handed victory to Ovtchinnikov. With only 10 minutes of rest the climbers were out again for the final. Chabot put in a stunning performance climbing quickly to top out again and take the victory. It was an interesting format that allowed us to see the different climbing styles of the competitors.

Commentary came at us in Italian, German and English from an ever-enthusiastic front man, against the standard extreme sport soundtrack. The event was very well supported by a large crowd, organized with good facilities but with inadequately small glasses for the beer.