Lecco bouldering

Last years Climbing World Cup in Lecco had been a great experience and I had been looking forward to it coming around again. This time, thanks to more flexible work commitments I was able to get along midweek to catch the final of the men's bouldering event. Unfortunately there was no Malcolm Smith to defend his title, but the competition turned out to be fantastic all the same.

The event is held in Piazza Cimentali against the backdrop of lake Como on one side and the mountains of Lecco on the other; it really is a fantastic venue. There is enough space to accommodate a fair sized crowed without feeling suffocated but small enough to feel friendly. I had an aperitivo in one of the bars surrounding the piazza before taking position for the main event. A fair sized crowd had turned up, and at 9pm we stood facing the raised platform on which there were set 6 fiendish looking problems ready for the competitors.

The format was as follows: 6 problems with 6 minutes to do each one. At midpoint a marked hold indicated where you could gain points if you held it. If you reached the top you would get maximum points. It was very warm and very humid, as it had been for the qualifications. Just standing in the crowd my hands were sweating, and I wasn't even climbing.

The first two finalists entered to a loud applause, they were the Italians Christian Core and Mauro Calibani. Christian was very smooth on all the problems but it wasn't going to be his night, never quite managed to top out until the very final block. Mauro looked stronger and amazed the crowd being the only one to complete problem 2 with a improbable move that circumnavigated a rounded block to reach the top. As more competitors entered the arena it became difficult to know who to watch, the Italians were still getting the loudest cheers, leaving the successes of the other competitors at times somewhat unnoticed.

But all were to get their fair share of attention, the competition was hotting up, top out's were becoming more frequent, and by the time Christian had finished all had seen at least one ascent. As if provoked by the heat of the battle to which we were witness distant lightning filled the night sky, the fireworks weren't meant until Sunday!

By now it was impossible to understand just who was winning, and we still had the ladies favourite Chris Sharma to come. Chris entered to rapturous applause, perhaps not just the ladies favourite. Relaxed almost to the point of forgetting why he was there, he seemed quite happy just to stand and soak up the energy radiating from the crowd.

The competition was approaching its climax. Jerome Meyer had been quietly and consistently polishing off problems and Serik Kazbekov was also looking strong, entertaining everyone with his leap of faith across the chasm on block 5, he seemed more surprised than anyone as he held the final hold. Chris was roaring through, all eyes seemed traced on him perhaps distracted momentarily by the storm that was closing in. Warm raindrops started to fall on sweaty skin, in any other circumstance they would have been welcomed, but we needed just another 18 minutes to finish the competition. What a tragedy it would have been not to see it concluded. The Ragni rushed to cover the wall with plastic, holding it out over the lip with brooms. God knows how the final competitors could concentrate with all this going on, but for us it was exciting.

With seconds to go Jerome toped out on the final 45? block, but had he done enough to fight off Sharma who still had the final two problems to do. DuLac, strong in the qualification finished looking tired leaving just Sharma to polish of the last block in his own unique style snatching it on his third attempt. Was he playing to the crowd?

But glory went to Jerome, I don't know by how much, but it must have been tight. What a fantastic evening, the problems, the competitors and the dramatic storm that surrounded us added up to one of the most exciting competitions I have seen.