Desire

12.30 a comfortable start as usual, but the days shorter and our numbers greater. A small invasion of Milanese stood around chatting in the car park waiting for panini. The first snows accentuated the biting teeth of Resegone. Perhaps it was a bit late to head up to Parete Stoppani, but it was such a nice day it didn't really matter.

It was not a day to hang around so I directed the action towards Desire 7b, it looked nice so why not? Lorenzo played lead role. For him it would be more difficult; placing extenders as he went. He always climbed smoothly and would hardly feel the difference. We were not really sure if we could make the belay, it was a grade above what we had been climbing, however he made good progress even if he needed to take rests. It was 7b after all. That's all I can say of his ascent. It is difficult to say much from what you see from below.

Now my turn. The first part followed a steep crack, the moves not difficult but sustained until a break where you can rest before the more difficult ground above. On either side the Milanese were making upwards progress. The difficulty cuts in immediately with a long reach left, maybe there is an easier way to shorten the reach, but I didn't find it. A small rest before an improbable launch out right up and back left followed by a slump on the rope. Small holds and even less for the feet. Another launch out left leads to good holds and a rest. Was that the crux? I hope so.

What now, it's not obvious, in fact only the position of the bolts indicates the route to be taken. A delicate downward traverse right on crimps before heading directly up the slab. Now after all that has gone before it feels desperate, the holds small but they are all there, it is intense I am drawn in. I feel that I will fail on every move, but somehow I manage to keep going. With no reaction from my hands they manage to stay in place, connected to the rock, feet are impatient, arms depleted. Then its over, the final holds lead to the chain. The sequence has been revealed, possible, broken down into small passages, just needing linking. Is this what they call a project?